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      <image:title>Stories - They cleaned our shoes while we slept.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Stories - They cleaned our shoes while we slept.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Stories - They cleaned our shoes while we slept.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Our room had a sunken hearth in the floor, an irori, with a kettle hanging over it. We sat around it for dinner in matching striped yukata, my son discovering grilled fish and deciding immediately it was the best thing that had ever happened to him. A woman knelt down and explained every dish as it arrived. In Japanese mostly, with the odd English word dropped in wherever she could find one. She did this for every single dish. Nobody decided halfway through that we probably weren’t following anyway and gave up.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Stories - They cleaned our shoes while we slept. - On our last morning we had to leave before breakfast was officially served.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Stories - A ryokan in Hokkaido where nothing was left to chance.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Our room had a private onsen with a view across the snow toward a forest that looked, in the fading afternoon light, like it was keeping secrets. That first night my son and I sat in the warm water while the temperature outside dropped and invented increasingly elaborate stories about the monsters we were certain lived between the trees. He was very specific about their habits. I did not correct him. The yukata (traditional japanese pyjama) on his pillow was the right size. I had not mentioned he was four.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>That evening I sat at the bar while my son slept. The barman asked what I would like. I told him to surprise me. He paused, then proposed something I had not encountered before: a drink for each month that mattered. February, he said. Your birth month? I nodded. Something cold and precise arrived. September. Someone important? My wife, I told him. Something warmer. November. My son. Something sweeter, with a complexity that arrived slowly. Three glasses, three people. He invented a small ritual from a single invitation to surprise me.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Stories - A ryokan in Hokkaido where nothing was left to chance.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Outside the snow kept falling. In the morning my windscreen was cleared before I reached the car. The dining reservations I had mentioned wanting were confirmed by the time breakfast was served. The weather that had felt like a threat on the drive up had been quietly absorbed into the experience, tamed by the same attention that had sent a host out into the cold to make sure we did not miss the entrance.</image:caption>
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